Craig and Amy in the South Seas: Voyage to Pitcairn and Beyond. Part 11, Ra’ivavae, Austral Archipelago

The night before our very last island, the weather had been stormy, but the same luck held as we got ready to land on Ra’ivavae: the skies turned blue and the seas began to calm. We had to anchor outside the lagoon, which was too shallow for the ship. So after a little pitching getting on, it was a smooth ride on the barge and as we approached the beach, there for the last time Aranui got another wonderful welcome: dancers, musicians, fresh coconuts, and ladies with leis for each of us. Another terrific arrival!

We could feel that somehow we were coming closer to civilization, even though we were still 729 km from Papeete: We had a tour of the island on a bus. Not a long tour, as Ra’ivavae is only 9 km long. We first visited a small ancient tiki, located in someone’s backyard. This tiki had a smile on his face! We also visited the local post office, a small grocery store with its family marae, and, on the back of the island, an ancient temple site, with several marae. There were beautiful views across the lagoon to the outer snorkeling areas, which are reputed to be wonderful, but it was still pretty choppy so we don’t think anyone went out there.

Then it was back to the town center, where there were many craft booths with shell jewelry, wood carvings and more woven hats. Amy got a beautiful yellow shell necklace with matching earrings. We got to visit with people just showing their crafts — two ladies rested on the outrigger of a wooden canoe to weave pandanus decorations, and they invited Amy to sit with them.

Before lunch, a table of local appetizers was set up near the boat landing, with delicious fruits and coconut dishes. Over on the side, several musicians were playing and I saw Steve Morris strumming along. They were having a great time and I noticed that a coconut was being passed around from one musician to the next. Well, we all got coconuts when we arrived, so why did they have to share? This was obvious once it was handed to me, as this wasn’t coconut milk, but a lovely rum concoction of some kind. One of the musicians had a 2 liter bottle hidden in a backpack and he would refill the coconut from time to time.

Unfortunately, a local cop saw what was going on, came over and confiscated the guy’s hooch. Further proof that cops are the same everywhere. Party poopers.

Soon, a delicious lunch, prepared in a kitchen next door, was served. All sorts of dishes, a delicious local bumpy looking seaweed, mostly fish cooked various ways, with bamboo plates and coconut cups ornamented with shells. There was more local dancing, and the music continued on and on. Another great day on a friendly isle!

Coming into Ra'ivavae..