At the east end of the archipelago of the Tuamotus lies a tiny atoll called Amanu. There are only 179 people living on this circle of coral in the vast South Pacific. The population is so small that once a child enters high school they must relocate to the nearby atoll of Hao and, for the first time for many of them, be away from the family and friends they have known all their lives.
The arrival of the Aranui was a big deal to these folks. A really big deal, we would find out.
We had to leave Aranui floating out in the deep sea, as the “pass”, which is where tidewater pours in and out of the lagoon between two islets, was too dangerous for the Aranui. We were on the first barge for the 20 minute ride around the point to the dock, protected inside the lagoon. As we arrived, many people were gathered on the dock in bright tropical shirts and dresses, many playing ukes, and children in freshly-made ti-leaf dresses and headbands were holding huge quantities of leis. And there was music! As we got closer, the music was quite beautiful and in the lyrics we could hear the words “Aranui E!”. They had composed a song just for us! In addition, young children and teenagers were lined up to greet every visitor with a fresh lei that they had made. As we made our way to town, the musicians and kids came with us, then gathered around in an open area and performed several dances. They continued on as more and more of the Aranui folks arrived, playing and dancing the whole time. It seemed that just about the entire population of 179 was part of the welcoming.
Eventually, all the passengers had arrived and we were taken in small groups for a tour of the town’s highlights. The town is sited right on the “pass” where tidewater creates rapids as it drains the lagoon. Then we came back to the shady town waterfront where a long table was set up and all sorts of local delicacies were offered to us, as appetizers. They offered us fruits and about five different dumpling-like breads made of coconut, all delicious and all different. It was amazing.
And then a huge buffet lunch was set up, with more delicious delicacies, including some amazing clams in coconut sauce, baked local fish, poisson cru, and more tasty tidbits. Here, the Aranui kitchen crew came to help serve.
One of the crafts they make here are beautiful shell leis, some quite intricate. They also make large figures out of shells, such as turtles, lizards and even the Eiffel Tower! I bought a nice shell lei for Amy from the man who makes them. Not only is it beautiful, but why not help out their economy? This shell lei would easily cost $100 or more in the US. Here, it was $15. There were also local ladies weaving fresh pandanus hats and food baskets and head leis, which they gave to anyone who wanted one.
By now, the musicians were set up and music and dancing continued throughout the afternoon. Our friend Steve Morris was given an extra ukulele, so he, Amy and I were invited to sit in and strum with the musicians. Of course, we knew none of the songs, but just watched the musicians play the chords we all knew and strummed along. The musicians played Tahitian ukes, Hawaiian ukes and guitars. The bass player had a wonderful string bass that consisted of a plastic tub with a tall stick stuck in it and a string attached between the two. As he moved the stick back and forth, he would pluck the string, thus making various notes.
There were special dances danced for us and occasionally, a musician would jump up and dance. More and more locals gathered around what I figured was the big event of the month. Or year!
The locals seemed to be having as much fun as we were, as the only tourists who normally come to Amanu are live aboard sailors on small sail boats. So this was a huge effort by the locals and hopefully it will be rewarded by a continuing relationship with the Aranui.
Over the next couple of weeks, we would have similar welcomings to the islands we visited. But for me, the day at Amanu was just about my favorite of the entire trip.
And in case you are wondering, the Aranui company sponsored Amanu for the huge effort they put into this event.
That evening, we had a “Plancha”, a huge buffet dinner served on the pool deck. Again, many fine delicacies, including fish and suckling pig. Oh my!
Is that you and Amy playing in the band?
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